Due to the recent large increase in numbers of entries for race meetings, until further notice all future race meetings will be advance booking only, with entry closing on the Wednesday before the meeting date. Entries received after this date, or made on the day, will be placed on a reserve list and cannot be guaranteed an entry.

Towards the end of each Club race meeting we shall leave a list of entries for that day on the scrutineering table. If you intend to race at the following meeting, simply tick your name and your entry will automatically be made into the next meeting.

Summer Championship rules

Some confusion seems to have arisen over the rules for the WLRC Summer Touring Car Championship.

Over the past few years the WLRC summer series has been run as a completely open championship, with the minimum of restrictions other than compliance with BRCA rules regarding weight and dimensions.

At the WLRC 1999 AGM proposals were made to introduce a class for super touring which complied with the BRCA regulations for control tyres and a 12 turn motor limit.

These proposals were defeated by a members vote, so the rules for the summer series remain as before, in other words any type of tyre (moulded or foam) may be used, and there is no motor limit.

Minimum weight for a scale saloon remains at 1500 grams and BRCA approved 3000 mAH batteries may be used in any class.

For the stock motor class, which is proving to be very popular, we require the use of "re-buildable"   24 degree stock motors, which have an identifying tag fixed to the armature. Kit 540 type motors may be permitted at the scrutineer’s discretion.

Messages

A reminder that the club Answerphone / FAX line (01753 683701) is intended for messages only, preferably by FAX, but you may leave a voice message. If you call this number do not expect a reply.

When leaving a verbal message please speak clearly and spell out any important words. If you wish to enter a race meeting, don't forget to state which class you want to enter, and all the crystals you have available,

and finally in the event of any query, please leave a contact telephone number.

Alternative Frequencies

We have recently welcomed a large number of new racers to our club meetings, and of course we want to do all we can to encourage new competitors. Unfortunately some new drivers are only turning up with one radio crystal available, and this can make sorting heats and finals difficult.

Could all drivers please ensure that they have at least one alternative frequency available exclusively to them. This is becoming increasingly important for 40MHz, now that the "budget" AM radios are on this frequency band. We at race control can usually help out with crystals on 27 MHz but this should not be relied upon.

The frequencies you list on the entry form are automatically stored on the race control computer, so if you obtain alternatives, please let us know so that the program may be updated. Similarly if one of your crystals is broken let us know so that we may remove it from the database. If you list an alternative frequency, then don't forget to bring it with you. You'll be surprised how many times the sorted heat listing is posted and somebody comes back to race control saying "I haven't got that crystal, it's in my other car/boat/ the dog ate it" etc.

Transponder Mounting

Competitors are reminded that transponders must be mounted inside the body of the car and within the wheelbase. In other words, behind the front axle line and ahead of the rear axle. (BRCA rule)

Mountings in front of the front shock tower, behind the rear shock tower or inside the front foam bumper are not permissible.

Remember, transponders are not indestructible, and if one is damaged it costs around £85 for a repair, in addition to the inconvenience of being without it for a week or more.

Hot Tips

The purchase of new cells will often mean some soldering practice for many people. Having seen a few nightmares in the past, it seems that soldering poses some people a few problems, so here are a few hints and tips.

The majority of faults seem to be either not getting the joint hot enough for the solder to flow properly, or not cleaning the surfaces to be joined, which prevents the solder from "sticking".

 The first and most important thing is to have a decent soldering iron.

This means one with a minimum of 50 watts rating, 60 to 100 watts is fine. In addition it should have a tip with a large thermal mass. That means having a bit at least 1/4" (6mm) in diameter, preferably larger. The act of placing the bit on the end of a cell results in the heat being drawn away from the tip and into the case of the cell. If the bit is small the temperature will drop rapidly and there will not be enough heat remaining to melt the solder. Using a bit with a low thermal mass will mean leaving the tip in contact with the cell longer. This can result in the cell becoming heated up and possibly being damaged. The objective should be to get the solder melted and the wire attached as quickly as possible.

The tip (the "bit") of the iron should be kept clean. Copper bits wear away gradually and need to be filed flat from time to time, but some bits are iron coated and these should not be filed. If the bit is filed while the iron is hot, it should be "tinned" immediately by applying a small amount of solder to cover the surface. The bit should be wiped clean during use by drawing it across a damp sponge from time to time, or rubbing it across some steel wool.

 For solder use a good quality resin flux cored electrical solder. Special solders are sold for use on the nickel plating of cell cases, but with the correct preparation (see later) I have never found them necessary. The purpose of the flux is to keep air away from the joint during the soldering process, preventing oxidisation and allowing the solder to flow smoothly.

 The next thing to consider is the item to be soldered.

There are three rules here. The first rule is that the surface must be clean. The second rule is that the surface must be clean, and that's also the third rule as well.

If you are soldering a cell, then carefully rub the surface over with some fine wet and dry abrasive paper (used dry) or fine emery cloth. This will clean the surface and also help to provide a 'key' for the solder to adhere to. Having cleaned the surface avoid touching it with your fingers, since the oil on the skin will contaminate the surface. Make sure the soldering iron is at its operating temperature. Apply a small amount of solder to the surface of the bit. This will improve the contact area between the iron and the surface by filling any surface roughness and will allow the heat to transfer more rapidly.

Next you should "tin" the end of the cell. Apply the iron to the end of the cell, keeping the area of contact as flat as possible to give the maximum transfer of heat. Apply a small amount of solder to the junction between the iron and the cell. If the temperature is right, the solder should melt, and capillary action should draw it between the two surfaces. Once this happens remove the heat immediately. You should have a thin layer of solder which looks clean and shiny, over the end of the cell, and the whole process should not have taken more than about ten to fifteen seconds. Any longer than this and you will be in danger of heating up the cell and possibly causing damage to it.

If the solder forms a number of separate "blobs" on the end of the cell it means you haven't cleaned the surface adequately. If the solder looks dull, grey and crumbly, then the temperature wasn't high enough. If it's been done correctly the boundary between the solder and the surface should be smooth, and not sharp or undercut. If it is then you've either used too much solder, not made it hot enough, not cleaned it adequately, or a combination of all three.

Once you have tinned the cell ends then do the same to whatever it is you are attaching to them, whether it's a length of wire, a battery bar or a connector tube. Remember, keep it clean and use a hot iron. The purpose of tinning is to produce a thin coat of solder on the items to be joined, not a big blobby lump.

For the final connection, you'll either need three hands or some means of holding all the pieces together. Place the items to be joined in contact with each other. Melt a small amount of solder on the tip of the iron and apply the tip to the pieces to be joined, so that they are both heated together. As soon as the solder melts apply more solder until it has flowed all around the joint. Remove the heat immediately, and make sure the parts are kept pressed firmly together and do not move until the solder has set solid. Remember that solder remains plastic for a while as it cools and if the joint is moved during this time it will be weakened. If this happens it will appear dull and crumbly as well as have a high electrical resistance, and is very likely to fail in use.

Do not try to carry all the solder for the joint on the tip of the iron. Use a small amount on the tip to heat the joint and apply the majority separately once the joint is molten. The entire process should not take more than about ten to fifteen seconds. If it takes longer than about 6 or 7 seconds to initially melt the solder, then either you need a larger iron, or the area to be heated (or the tip of the iron) is excessively dirty.

The ideal joint will appear bright and shiny and smooth and will be even all around the contact area. This is consistent with a good mechanical joint, and low electrical resistance.

If you are soldering several joints in succession, give the iron a few seconds to re-heat between joints, since even a large iron will have difficulty maintaining heat under these conditions.

 The example given refers to cell wiring, since this is about the most demanding soldering task you are likely to face. The same principles apply to any heavy wiring such as motor connections or re-wirable speed controllers.

If you are repairing a servo wire or replacing the aerial lead on a receiver you will need an appropriately sized iron. A soldering iron with a rating of 15-25 watts with a tip about  2 mm diameter is suitable for light duty work.

 Remember the two keys to success - a good hot soldering iron and clean surfaces to be soldered and you're 90% there.

Warning Note: Most solders contain lead, a known toxic substance. Carry out all soldering procedures in a well ventilated area and avoid breathing soldering fumes and also inhaling the fumes from the flux, which can also cause throat irritation and has been known in some cases to cause asthma attacks.

Non-Members

A reminder that all drivers are required to be BRCA members. This is to satisfy our public liability insurance, which is operated through the BRCA.

Non-members will be allowed to race at up to three meetings as a guest driver, but after this you will be expected to become a BRCA member. If you choose to join the BRCA via WLRC membership this will of course save you money in the long run.